New University Club Chef Brings Fresh Approach to Menu

August 31st, 2009 - Filed under: Cover Story

Chef David Dickensauge inspects seasonal produce at the Homegrown Alabama Farmers' Market.

Chef David Dickensauge inspects seasonal produce at the Homegrown Alabama Farmers' Market.

By Cathy Butler

David Dickensauge has been executive chef at the University Club only for a month or so, and guests already notice a difference. An advocate of the slow food movement, Dickensauge is devoted to using fresh, locally grown food. “We’re moving away from canned and frozen foods. Why use those when we have great farms right here in central Alabama, some right outside Tuscaloosa?” he said.

090856_JH_Chef_at_Farmers_MarketDickensauge shops at the Birmingham Farmer’s Market as well as the Tuscaloosa Farmer’s Market and the Homegrown Alabama Farmer’s Market. He hopes to form relationships with local farmers that ultimately will lead to growers bringing their freshest produce right to the Club.

“I love the slow food movement,” Dickensauge said. “And central Alabama chefs are passionate about using Alabama products, understandably so. The dishes have more taste, more color, better aroma, better presentation; it’s a better dining experience.” He hopes that through their experience with the University Club, the UA community will see the value of fresh, local foods.

A graduate of the Culinary Institute of New Orleans and Culinard of Birmingham, Dickensauge already has years of experience as a prep chef, sous chef, line chef and executive chef in restaurants ranging from New Orleans to Birmingham, Chicago to Tuscaloosa. Dickensauge started cooking when he was 15 years old and has 10 solid years of professional cooking experience.

While he understands the necessity of an executive chef managing the staff, budget and processes of the kitchen, he never wants to lose sight of his main passion, savory cooking. He is revising the University Club menu and plans to have the revision complete in September. It will still be traditional Southern but with the Creole-New Orleans flair that is his specialty.

The à la carte menu will feature such offerings as vanilla juniper pork roast with three-potato hash and tomatoraisin chutney; buttermilk fried chicken, glazed carrots and potatoes; and seared salmon with lady pea succotash, fried okra and avocado and corn relish.

The emphasis on local foods means customers will see more seasonal vegetables on the buffet. Braised and roasted meats and hearty dishes will make an appearance for the fall and winter.

Dickensauge’s Culinard degree is in pastry and confectionary. Although desserts will never be his first love, he is glad for the education. “A true chef knows both ends of the spectrum,” he said. “You don’t have to be a master of pastry, but you need to know it in order to anticipate the entire meal.”

His mentors are the late Jamie Shannon, famed New Orleans chef and the first chef he worked for; Chris Dupont, owner of Café Dupont in Birmingham; Thomas Keller, chef of the acclaimed French Laundry restaurant in California; and Charlie Trotter of Chicago, whom Dickensauge described as “an innovator in the culinary world.”

But not all those who have helped the University Club’s new chef are famous. When asked if he shares recipes with customers, he said, “Of course. Lots of people have shared their recipes with me, and I still use them. People have been generous with me, and I want to be the same.”

Besides his appreciation for Alabama food, Dickensauge also appreciates the tradition the University Club represents to the UA community. He wants to maintain that while bringing the menu and the entire dining experience to a new level. He views the effort as another way to bring more positive attention to the University.

“We want people to hold their events at the University Club,” he said. “We want our loyal customers to keep coming here, and for new customers to visit us and see what we have to offer.”

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